Salem, Oregon A City and
Region with Diverse Appeal
The Romantic Wine Country of Oregon's Mid-Willamette
Valley
Situated in the Mid-Willamette Valley, Salem
is the state's capital city and is in the heart of some of the most
breathtakingly beautiful scenery you will find anywhere on earth. Straddling
the 45th Parallel -halfway between the Equator and the North Pole, Salem's
surrounding countryside is home to vineyards and wineries whose wines
compete with the finest vintages of Europe's Alsace, Burgundy and Rhine
regions. It's no wonder that Fodor's has designated this region the
most romantic travel destination in the country.
Rolling hillsides tucked between the Cascade
Mountains and the Coastal Range flank the Willamette River as it winds
its way north to meet the mighty Columbia. These hillsides provide the
perfect microclimates and fertile soils necessary to grow grapes that
are made into some of the world's finest vintages. This is a wine-growing
region of rare distinction. Volcanic soils, perfect elevations and cool
Pacific breezes work together to produce the ideal growing conditions
for cool climate grapes.
Wines reflect the essence of the land where
the grapes are grown and the care with which they are crafted. The soil,
weather and the gentle, sunny slopes allow the grapes to ripen slowly,
developing the delectable flavors required for world-class wines. By
world standards, the region's largest wineries are small but the wines
they produce are exceptional.
These Willamette Valley wineries are headed
by dedicated individuals and families who are committed to producing
outstanding vintages while being good stewards of the land. By state
mandate Oregon wineries must comply to strict labeling standards, with
the "LIVE," "Salmon Safe" and "organic" designations indicating the
vineyards' adherence to the limitation of chemical substances, an ecology
friendly policy of biodiversity in the vineyard, the prevention of runoff
and erosion or compliance with organic designation standards.
Pinot noir has become the state's signature
varietal and no other region in the New World has the climate to produce
this complex and elegant red wine. Only France's Burgundy region rivals
the conditions found here for this temperamental grape. Pinot noir grows
well in only a few places outside of Burgundy, France and the hills
of the Salem area are one of those rare regions. Our pleasant summers
of long, warm days and mild cooling autumns provide the long growing
season that allows grapes to ripen gradually and develop complex flavors.
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Pinot gris is the States major white varietal. Oregon's visionary
pioneer winemakers brought Pinot gris vines from Alsace, France and
their intuition that this grape would thrive and flourish here proved
correct. Chardonnay and Riesling are other white wines you will enjoy
here, along with GewŸrztraminer, Pinot blanc, MŸller Thurgau,
and others - as well as excellent dessert and sparkling wines.
A tour of the Wine Country in Marion
and Polk Counties can be based in Salem, the region's largest city,
where you'll find hotel and motel accommodations. Wonderful bed and
breakfast establishments are scattered throughout the city and can
be found adjacent to - or even right in - the vineyards.
The natural beauty of the Willamette
Valley makes touring by automobile a pleasure at every turn, whether
you choose to hire a limousine to chauffeur you from one winery to
the next or to drive yourself as you explore the region. Just remember
that a designated driver is always a good idea!
Northwest of Salem lie the Eola Hills,
home of several fine wineries. Just a short 10 minutes from the heart
of the city, you'll discover an area that many of Oregon's most acclaimed
vineyards call home. Bring a picnic along for your afternoon's excursion,
you'll want to linger at the wineries and soak in the vistas from their
tasting rooms and picnic areas while discovering for yourself why so
many wine connoisseurs have ranked the vintages produced here so highly.
Bethel Heights Vineyard was founded in
1977 and was one of the first vineyards planted in the Eola Hills.
This vineyard and winery has been owned and operated by the same family
since the first grape stocks were planted. Burgundian-style Pinot noir
and Chardonnay, as well as Pinot blanc and Pinot gris are crafted here.
Bethel Heights has earned a distinction for its small lots of block-designated
reserve Pinot noir and Chardonnay. The beautiful tasting room, its
terrace and picnic area have breath-taking views of the Willamette
Valley and Cascade Range.
At Cristom Vineyards owners Paul and
Eileen Gerrie, winemaker Steve Doerner and vineyard manager Mark Felts
combine their talents and fuse old world traditions with new world
technology. This winery has gained a reputation for producing superb
Pinot noir, Chardonnay, Pinot gris and Voignier utilizing natural methods
and minimal handling. A visit here provides the sensual tasting of
outstanding wines combined with the visual feast of a breathtaking
view.
Eola Hills Wine Cellars is noted for
producing award-winning wines and feature a wide variety of regular
and reserve wines that include Pinot noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, Zinfandel, Pinot gris, Riesling, Sauvignon blanc, Syrah and
late harvest dessert wines. Their famous "Sunday Brunch in the Cellar," "Bike
Oregon Wine Country," and "Enchanted Christmas" holiday concerts are
just some of the special events held here. Located across from the
Polk County Fairgrounds in Rickreall, the tasting room and gift shop
are easily accessible from Salem.
Evesham Wood Vineyard and Winery produces
small lots of premium handcrafted wines from the finest Eola Hills
vineyard sites. Evesham Wood earned its organic certification in 2000.
With its small vineyard, Evesham Wood purchases grapes from nearby
vineyards. Although moderately-priced wine is produced from multiple-vineyard
blends, most wines are "vineyard designated." This production of small
vintages allows the wines to best express their distinctive nuances
of soil and microclimate. Currently producing 3,000 to 3,500 cases
annually, the winery has a commitment to limiting production to only
4,000 cases per year to maintain the highest standards of quality.
The 100-acre estate at Witness Tree Vineyard
is nestled in the Eola Hills northwest of Salem. This small producer
of outstanding Pinot noir and Chardonnay wines utilizes grapes grown
entirely onsite. Witness Tree's philosophy is that only by tending
their own vines can they produce the finest wines.
Witness Tree Vineyard was named after
an ancient oak tree that towers over the vineyard and hillsides, this
mighty oak was designated a surveyor's landmark in 1854 and bears physical
scars of the markers that give it its designation. The winer's label
carries an image of this impressive tree whose roots, like those of
the grapevines, find sustenance in the vineyard's rich soils.
West of Salem, located in the small town
of Monmouth is Airlie Winery. Here you'll find a small, family-owned
and operated winery that produces award-winning wines, including the
renowned MŸller Thurgau. This winery is only one of two producers
of Marchal Foch in the area. Other wines include Pinot noir,
Chardonnay, GewŸrztraminer and Riesling, with a late harvest GewŸrztraminer.
Near Turner is the region's largest winery
- Willamette Valley Vineyards. Located just south of Salem and visible
from Interstate 5, Willamette Valley Vineyards was established by Oregon
winegrower Jim Bernau in 1983. The winery has grown into a public common
stock winery owned by many enthusiastic wine consumers. Willamette
Valley Vineyards produces quality Pinot noir, Pinot gris, Chardonnay
and Riesling. Scheduled guided tours provide a view of the winery's
unique architecture, underground cellar and state-of-the-art winemaking
equipment. Special events are held throughout the year and include
concerts, an annual "Grape Stomp and Harvest Celebration" and "Holidays
in the Vineyard." The knowledgeable staff in the tasting room will
steer you to the discovery of some remarkable wines as you enjoy the
spectacular view.
Returning to Salem, you'll find Honeywood
Winery located near Willamette University and the Mission Mill Museum
complex. Established in 1933, Honeywood is the oldest producing winery
in the state. A full line of premium vinifera wines, including Pinot
noir, Riesling, Chardonnay and Muscat, as well as the most extensive
listing of premium fruit and specialty wines made in Oregon are produced
under the Honeywood label.
Traveling along the country roads of
this region, keep your eyes open for vistas, wildlife, old country
churches and photo opportunities. You can spot deer, hawks, coyotes,
dogwood trees in bloom, picturesque clapboard churches, flocks of goats
and the comical faces of llamas. During summer months look for farm
fresh produce that you can purchase and enjoy with your day's wine
selection to create a memorable summer repast.
Getting to know the winemakers and vineyard
managers during your tour will lead to unforgettable experiences. Seeing
the strength of the roots of old Chardonnay vines being pulled up by
tractors to make way for new, more vigorous rootstock, as they hold
to the ground against the mechanical strength of the backhoe. The early
morning light or sunset over a vineyard is breathtaking - coupled with
panoramic vistas it creates an unforgettable image. New vineyards being
planted in spring, vines being stripped in winter, and warm sun-ripened
grapes being harvested in fall are all a part of the annual cycle of
life that occurs in the vineyard.
When you tour the wineries of Marion
and Polk Counties, you will meet the people who work hands-on to create
and craft fine wines that they take pride in presenting for your enjoyment
in their tasting rooms. These winemakers are justifiably proud of their
work and are willing to help you to learn more about the wines so that
you might better enjoy "the fruit of the vine."
Visiting the wineries, meeting the winemakers
and seeing the setting will give you a connection to the wine that
you taste and choose to take home to enjoy with a meal or to share
with family and friends. When you pull the cork and pour a glass, your
vineyard memories will flood back and you'll begin to think about your
next visit to this outstanding region.
WINE TASTING TIPS
- When visiting the wineries, there are a few tips to enhance your
tasting. First, always have a designated driver - or travel in style
and hire a limo! If you are (or look like you are) age 26 or younger,
Oregon law requires wineries to check your identification, so don't
leave it behind.
- At the winery, remember that tasting involves multiple senses.
Keep the perfumes and heavy scents to a minimum - better yet don't
wear them at all that day. They will distract your nose, and others'
noses, from the aroma of the wines.
- When presented with a glass of wine, first look at its color. Swirl
it around, sniff it, savor the bouquet and take a moment to identify
the aroma. Now you're ready for a sip. Swirl it over your tongue and
enjoy its taste and feel in your mouth. Identify the flavors. Ask
yourself what do you like about it? Why? With what food would this
taste good? Now, spit it out - that's right, spit it out! Tasting
is just that - tasting, not drinking.
- Remember to be adventurous and try something new - you're on a
voyage of discovery and this is the perfect opportunity to encounter
unique offerings. When you find a wine you enjoy, buy a glass to drink,
or better yet, buy a bottle - or even a case - to take home. Some
wines are of limited production and may be available only at the winery.
- If you are visiting during hot summer weather, a cooler is a must
for maintaining a wine-friendly temperature for the bottles you purchase
as you continue your tour.
- Remember, too, that not all wineries offer free tastings. Some
wines are complimentary and others may be available for a nominal
charge. Pack a picnic, most wineries have picnic areas and spectacular
views can be found more often than not, so bring along a camera and
binoculars.
WINERY CONTACT INFORMATION
A listing and map of the wineries located in the Mid-Willamette Valley,
including those described here, can be obtained by calling the Salem
Convention and Visitors Association at 800.874.7012.
Ask for the Salem Area Visitors Guide (including
Marion and Polk Counties). A comprehensive listing of all of the wineries
located within the state of Oregon can be obtained from the Oregon
Wine Advisory Board.
To request the "Oregon Winery Guide" call 503-228-8336 or online at www.oregonwine.org.
The following listing contains
the wineries' addresses and telephone numbers. Special events are
held throughout the year at many wineries and schedules of upcoming
events can be found at their websites, along with the dates and hours
the wineries are open for visitors.
Oregon Wine Advisory Board, 503-228-8336
www.oregonwine.org About the author: Sharan Barnett is a writer
who resides in Salem, Oregon. She has traveled extensively throughout
the United States, Canada, Europe and Israel. She and her husband have
resided in San Francisco, Carmel, Santa Fe, Seattle, Tel Aviv and Portland.
A gourmet cook, she and her husband, photographer Frank Barnett, enjoy
the bounty of the region's wines and produce.
